Fifteen Years to the Gate: A Kyoto Elopement at the Peak of Autumn

The bride and groom stand close beneath a vermilion torii beside a tall stone lantern in a cedar forest at their Kyoto elopement.

Most of our couples meet Japan first and marry here later: a trip, a feeling, a decision to come back. This couple did it the other way round. Their Kyoto elopement was the first time either of them had set foot in Japan, and by then the country had been part of their story for fifteen years.

They met as teenagers in 2010, two high school students who connected over the same dream: to see Japan one day. Seven years into dating, he proposed, and where to marry was never really a question. They wanted to elope in the country that had been there from the very start.

They’re from Orlando, and before they flew they held a send-off at home for their family and friends, a proper goodbye with everyone they love. Japan they kept for the two of them. It was an elopement in the truest sense, just the two of them and our team, in a private garden in the hills of north Kyoto with the maples at their height. We loved them quickly: warm, funny, deeply devoted to each other, and so ready for this country that every hour of the trip seemed like something they’d been saving.

There’s a particular gift in meeting a country and a marriage in the same week. Nothing has to compete with an earlier memory. Every gate they walked through, every bowl of tea and every street in Kyoto was a first, and every one of them belongs to the wedding for good.

The film opens on a cover of “We Are!”, the first opening theme of One Piece, which is exactly the right overture for two lifelong anime fans marrying in the country they’d dreamed about since high school. It keeps what still frames can’t: their voices under the torii, the laughter over the sake cups, and the moment the formal part was over and the city was theirs to play in. Our photography and film are made as one piece of work for days like this, when the sound of a place matters as much as its colour.

The bride in her lace wedding dress and veil stands at the edge of a slice of window light in a dark hotel room in Kyoto.
A black and white portrait of the groom in a dark shirt, sitting on a low ledge beside a tall window on the morning of his elopement.
  • A diamond engagement ring with a starburst setting stands on dark faceted tiles, its reflection beneath it, on a Kyoto elopement morning.
  • The engagement ring and a black and gold wedding band on a dark surface, and the bride's lace bodice with pearls set in her braids.
  • The wedding rings resting together in low light, and the bride in her veil standing in a dark doorway lit by one shaft of light.
  • The groom getting ready in a grey vest, the tattoos on his forearm and upper arm caught in soft hotel window light.
  • The groom in a black shirt sits on a window ledge striped with shadow, and a close view of his hands resting in the same light.
  • Black and white frames of the groom pulling on his shirt sleeve, and his silhouette doubled in a mirror as he dresses.
  • Black and white close up of the groom fastening his cuff, and a portrait of him in his black shirt beside the window light.
  • The bride smiles down, pearls threaded through her long braids, a crystal necklace and lace bodice beneath her sheer veil.
  • The bride stands in a narrow dark doorway in her wedding dress and veil, a single shaft of light falling across her.
  • Black and white frames of the groom shrugging on his shirt and buttoning his waistcoat on the morning of a Kyoto elopement.
  • The groom with his hands behind his head in a black shirt and tie, and seated by the window, looking out at the morning.
  • The bride looks down with pearls in her braids, and stands wrapped in a soft halo of light in a dark room in her wedding dress.
  • The bride holds her autumn bouquet in a bright doorway, and a close portrait of her face half in shadow under her veil.

A Garden Kept for the Two of Them

The garden where they married sits in the hills of north Kyoto, a world of cedar, moss, stone lanterns and maples. It’s a garden we know well, and one we can hire privately for intimate gatherings, which is how, at the height of Kyoto’s autumn colour, it belonged to the two of them for the morning.

In Kyoto that kind of privacy is rare. Late autumn is when the whole city turns out for the leaves, and the famous gardens fill shoulder to shoulder. A morning among the maples with no one else in sight isn’t something a couple can find by searching. It comes from relationships built over years, and from knowing which doors open, and when. For two people who’d carried a dream of Japan for fifteen years, it meant the morning they married held no one but them and the few of us looking after them.

From above, the bride and groom walk a gravel path through a private garden in north Kyoto, red parasols among bare and autumn trees.
The bride walks up behind the groom, who waits facing a moss-roofed pavilion in a Japanese garden for their first look.

Dee planned the morning around the light. In early December the sun drops behind the mountains well before it sets, and the garden falls into shadow early, so the vows came first and the rest of the day followed the sun down into the city. When we plan an elopement in Kyoto, that’s the kind of detail that shapes everything else.

  • Sunlight breaks through tall cedars behind a carved stone lantern in a private Japanese garden in the hills of north Kyoto.
  • The bride walks past a red paper parasol and a red felt bench in a Kyoto garden, a helper lifting the train of her dress.
  • Seen from behind, the bride in her long veil approaches the groom at an old moss-roofed pavilion for their first look.
  • A black and white frame of the couple walking hand in hand across a garden under bare branches towards a wooden pavilion.
  • A spray of dark green leaves lit by a narrow shaft of sun against deep shadow in a Japanese garden in Kyoto.
  • The bride under her veil holds an autumn bouquet among moss and trees, her long train spread across the gravel path.
  • The bride looks down beneath a sheer veil scattered with pearls, flowering branches soft behind her in a Japanese garden.
  • A black and white portrait of the bride beneath her long veil, lace gown and bouquet, among the branches of a Kyoto garden.
  • The bride in profile beneath her veil, pearls threaded through her braids, the garden's trees blurred into green behind her.
  • A black and white portrait of the bride holding her veil open beside her face, pearls catching the light in her braids.
  • The bride seen from behind, her veil falling over a fitted lace gown, a mossy rock and tall trees around her.
  • The bride turns in her veil beside moss-covered rocks and flowering branches, her train across the gravel of the garden.
  • The bride and groom walk hand in hand along a sunlit path through the moss garden, a wooden pavilion behind them.
  • The underside of a red paper parasol, and a wide view of the garden valley with the couple beside an old pavilion and red bench.
  • A wide view over the garden in the hills of north Kyoto with red benches below, and the couple kissing in front of the pavilion.
  • The bride smiles with her cheek against the groom's, and her sheer veil blows across her face in the garden breeze.
  • Black and white frames of the couple kissing in front of flowering branches and walking apart along a path through the trees.
  • The bride and groom laugh nose to nose, then kiss, pearls in her braids catching the sun in the garden of their Kyoto elopement.
  • The couple kiss in soft sunlight in the garden, and a close portrait of the bride with her eyes lowered beneath her veil.

A Kyoto Elopement Through the Torii

Dee, who planned the day and led the ceremony, chose the garden’s vermilion torii as their altar. She told them why months before they arrived: she loved that it’s a linear space, “transitioning from the regular world to the sacred.”

That’s what a torii is for. Shinto’s own shrine association describes it as a kind of gate at a shrine’s entrance, marking the boundary between the sacred ground of the kami and the world of people. This one stands among cedars and stone lanterns. Two characters are painted on its pillars, 奉納, hōnō: dedicated as an offering. A torii marked this way is a gift to the gods, usually given in thanks or in hope.

For two people standing in Japan for the first time, it was the right threshold. They’d crossed an ocean for this country, and the last few steps took them through a gate built for exactly that kind of crossing.

The bride and groom face each other beneath a vermilion torii beside a stone lantern and moss, a cedar forest behind their Kyoto elopement.
The bride and groom stand face to face between the tall vermilion pillars of a torii during their wedding vows in a Kyoto forest.
The bride smiles and cups a small red lacquer sake cup in both hands as the groom looks on during san-san-kudo under the torii.
The bride and groom kiss beneath the vermilion torii, a stone lantern beside them and dark cedars behind, as the ceremony ends.

Their ceremony held more than one tradition without any strain. They asked us for vows, rings and a formal sake exchange, and for a prayer after the rings, because faith is part of who they are. So san-san-kudo, three cups and three sips each, sat beside a prayer of their own beneath a Shinto gate. Nothing in it was borrowed for effect. All of it was chosen.

The bride calls herself a passionate writer, and they wrote their own vows and read them to each other. Those words stay theirs. We’ll only say that neither of them reached the end of the ceremony with dry eyes, and both said so out loud.

  • The groom grins as he walks with the bride beneath the vermilion torii, her bouquet in hand and her train trailing on the path.
  • A wide view of the couple facing each other under the vermilion torii, a carved stone lantern and moss on either side.
  • The bride laughs as she faces the groom during their vows, sunlight striking the forest slope behind them in north Kyoto.
  • The groom reads to the bride beneath the vermilion torii, a tall stone lantern and cedar trunks beside them in the forest.
  • The bride smiles up at the groom in the ceremony, her veil and the sunlit forest slope glowing behind them.
  • The bride and groom stand face to face in the dark forest, pearls in her braids and the edge of her veil catching the light.
  • The bride laughs as she holds the groom's hands during the ceremony, her veil falling past her shoulders.
  • The couple hold each other beneath the vermilion torii, a stone lantern and moss beside the gravel path through the cedars.
  • The bride and groom walk away from the camera through the vermilion torii and into the cedar forest beyond.
  • The bride and groom walk towards the camera along the gravel path through the vermilion torii, cedars rising on either side.
  • The groom bends forward beside the bride under the vermilion torii as she walks the path, moss along the edge of the gravel.
  • The groom holds the bride close as they kiss beneath the vermilion torii at their elopement in the hills of north Kyoto.
  • The bride approaching the groom at the moss-roofed pavilion, and the two of them facing each other under the vermilion torii.
  • The couple face each other between the torii pillars, and a close view of their joined hands beside a white and red bouquet.
  • A wide view of the ceremony at the torii between stone lanterns, and the groom brushing back the bride's hair as she smiles.
  • The bride reads from her phone as the groom listens under the vermilion pillars, and smiles up at him with pearls in her hair.
  • The bride laughs beside a vermilion pillar, and the groom slides the wedding ring onto her finger during the ceremony.
  • The couple hold hands as the bride laughs by the torii, and her hands lift a small red sake cup against her lace gown.
  • Sake is poured from a red lacquer pot into the bride's cup, and she smiles as the groom takes his turn in the san-san-kudo ritual.
  • The couple kiss beneath the torii beside a stone lantern, and again in front of the old pavilion as leaves fall around them.
  • The couple kiss under the torii seen low across stone, and red maple leaves float on rippled water in a mossy stone basin.
  • From above, the couple walk a garden path past red parasols, and stand beneath the vermilion torii beside a stone lantern.

Hearts, Read the Old Way

Look closely at old Japanese woodwork and you’ll find hearts cut into it. In Japan the shape is far older than the valentine. It’s called inome, the boar’s eye, and Hasedera, the great temple in Nara, describes it as a charm used throughout traditional Japanese architecture to ward off evil and invite good fortune. Only lately has it come to be read as a heart, and now it turns up on ema and amulets for love. A shape that began as protection seems the right one to frame two people in the first hours of their marriage.

The cake they shared beside the old pavilion was a small portrait of them both: raspberry for him, pistachio for her, because those are their favourites. Then tea, in a tatami room open to the maples. In Japan, tea carries the idea of ichi-go ichi-e, one time, one meeting: no gathering ever happens in quite the same way again. A bowl of matcha on your wedding morning, in a country you’re seeing for the first time, is about as close to that idea as anyone gets.

A black and white frame of the bride and groom kissing, seen through a heart-shaped window cut into a wooden garden pavilion.
The bride feeds the groom a piece of wedding cake as they sit on a red felt bench in a Kyoto garden, autumn trees behind them.
The bride and groom drink matcha in silhouette in a tatami tea room, autumn maples glowing beyond the open window.
  • A naked wedding cake topped with dried autumn flowers, berries and leaves, on a round wooden stand in the garden pavilion.
  • The couple share cake on a red felt bench in front of the old pavilion as a woman in a black kimono serves them.
  • The wedding cake with dried flowers on a wooden stand, red lacquer sake cups on the red felt cloth beside it.
  • The couple sip matcha at a low sunken table in a tatami tea room, paper screens open to autumn trees, on their Kyoto elopement.
  • The couple walk a sunlit garden path, and stand inside a wooden pavilion with heart-shaped windows looking out on autumn trees.
  • Seen from directly above, the couple sit on a red bench in the garden, and the bride feeds the groom a bite of cake.
  • A wooden garden pavilion with heart-shaped windows, and the couple kissing framed in one of the heart shapes in autumn light.
  • The couple sit together at a low table in a tatami tea room by a red parasol, then drink tea with autumn colour beyond.
  • The couple in silhouette drinking tea against glowing maples, and a red and white paper parasol seen from beneath.
  • A dark tea room window framing a tree of red maples outside, and a close view of red maple leaves lit by the sun.
  • A wide view of the tatami tea room with the couple, a red parasol and open windows, and a deep red maple canopy.

Autumn in Kyoto, at Its Height

They chose late autumn for the red maples. When they first asked, Dee told them the honest version: in October Kyoto is still mostly green, and the colour peaks at the end of November and into early December. So they waited for it. In the city, early December is when the maples reach their fullest, and they married right in the middle of it.

On Japan’s old calendar of 72 seasons, their wedding fell on the last day of a five-day season called tachibana hajimete kibamu, the tachibana begins to turn yellow. The tachibana is Japan’s native wild citrus, and there’s been one in front of the Shishinden, the ceremonial hall of the Kyoto Imperial Palace, since the capital moved to the city at the end of the eighth century. That afternoon the colour around them did the same thing the season’s name describes, moving from deep red maples into a long grove of gold.

For a couple who’d waited fifteen years for Japan, a few more weeks for the colour was easy. A Kyoto elopement in peak autumn asks for a little patience with the calendar, and repays it in full.

The bride and groom kiss behind a branch of red maple leaves, peak autumn colour in Kyoto filling the frame.
A wide view of a grove of orange and gold maples in peak autumn in Kyoto, the couple standing small beneath the canopy.
The groom dips the bride beneath golden maples in Kyoto, low sun lighting the canopy and the leaves on the ground.
The bride smiles down in her lace gown, her long veil lit gold from behind by the autumn maples of Kyoto.
  • Red Japanese maple leaves lit by the low sun against deep shadow, the peak of autumn colour in Kyoto in early December.
  • The bride and groom kiss in front of a wall of red maple leaves on the afternoon of their Kyoto elopement.
  • The bride rests her hand against the groom's face as they embrace among branches of deep red maple leaves.
  • The bride and groom hold each other and laugh in front of a canopy of red and orange maples in Kyoto.
  • Black and white frames of the couple kissing under the trees, and standing together in deep shade among the maples.
  • The couple kiss and then hug in front of a blaze of red maple leaves on a sunlit afternoon in Kyoto.
  • The groom lifts the bride's veil among red maples, and the couple kiss behind a branch of red leaves.
  • The bride glances aside with a smile as the groom stands close behind her, red and gold autumn colour in Kyoto around them.
  • The groom leans his head against the bride's as she looks down at her hands, orange maples soft behind them.
  • The bride and groom dance and laugh on fallen leaves beneath golden maples, the bride flashing a peace sign.
  • The bride stands with her autumn bouquet on a path through a golden maple grove in Kyoto, her long train behind her.
  • A grove of orange maples with the couple small beneath it, and a close portrait of the two of them in deep shade.
  • A wide view of red and orange maples in a Kyoto grove, and the couple standing together in the shade of the trees.
  • The couple stand beneath dark maples in pools of light, and a close portrait of the groom and bride in hard autumn sun.
  • The couple under a dark maple canopy, and the bride in shade looking down while the groom stands close behind her.
  • A portrait of the bride with the groom behind her in shade, and the couple standing under a great orange maple.
  • The bride looks over her shoulder in low light, and the couple stand beneath a huge orange maple in a Kyoto grove.
  • Orange maple leaves up close, and the bride and groom walking hand in hand under a canopy of golden maples.
  • The couple small beneath a golden canopy, and the bride and groom laughing together among the autumn leaves.
  • The couple walk hand in hand through a golden grove, and the groom dips the bride low on the fallen leaves.
  • The bride and groom walk through a golden maple grove, then laugh together as the low sun lights the leaves.

Formalities Done, Now the City

Kyoto came late in their planning. The first idea was a countryside ryokan. What changed it was street food. They wanted to finish their vows and walk out into a city in their wedding clothes, and the groom loved the feeling of the formal part being done and the playing beginning. The bride didn’t want to lose the maples or the privacy. Kyoto gave them both: a garden in the hills in the morning, and the old city in the afternoon.

So the afternoon went to a willow-lined canal near the Shirakawa, the white-walled lanes and a dagashi bar. Dagashi are Japan’s penny sweets. In the Edo period they were called one-mon sweets, after the coin they cost, made from cheap grains and coarse sugar rather than the rice of finer confectionery. The da in the word refers to a packhorse, the kind that carries loads rather than riders. By the Shōwa era, the neighbourhood dagashi shop was where children gathered after school. A dagashi bar keeps that childhood room and opens it to grown-ups.

Two people who first dreamed of Japan as teenagers spent the afternoon of their wedding in a room built from Japanese childhood. Then the Kamo River at sunset, on its stepping stones, and a 7-Eleven in a wedding dress, because no first trip to Japan is complete without one.

The bride and groom stand on a narrow stone slab bridge over a willow-lined canal near the Shirakawa in Kyoto, hills behind.
The groom opens a sweet as the bride pours a drink at a dagashi bar table in Kyoto, a chalkboard and posters behind them.
A black and white frame of the bride and groom laughing as they walk down a busy Kyoto street in their wedding clothes.
The couple embrace on the stepping stones of the Kamo River in Kyoto at sunset, a bridge overhead and a pink sky behind.
The bride and groom walk out of a lit 7-Eleven at night in their wedding clothes after their Kyoto elopement.
  • The couple stand on a wooden bridge over a shallow canal in Kyoto, autumn trees and willows arching above them.
  • The bride and groom laugh over drinks and baskets of sweets at a table in a Kyoto dagashi bar, a chalkboard behind them.
  • The couple lean on the rail of a small bridge over a stream in Kyoto, willows and autumn leaves above the water.
  • The couple on a stone slab bridge over a willow-lined canal near the Shirakawa, and the groom twirling the bride by a white wall.
  • The couple on a stone slab bridge across a willow-lined canal near the Shirakawa, and on a wooden bridge seen through willows.
  • Shelves of brightly packaged dagashi sweets, and the bride and groom browsing in a crowded Kyoto sweets shop.
  • A wall of toys and old photo cards in a dagashi shop, and the bride laughing in her veil as the groom browses the shelves.
  • The couple open snacks at a dagashi bar table, and the bar's counter crowded with toys, sweets and shelves of games.
  • The bride laughs holding her phone as the groom pulls on his jacket in a Kyoto backstreet, then they embrace by a shopfront.
  • Black and white frames of the groom pulling on his coat with the bride behind him, and the couple laughing down a Kyoto street.
  • The couple embrace on a Kyoto street lined with shops, and stand small on a bridge over a canal under autumn trees.
  • The couple embrace on the Kamo River stepping stones at sunset, and walk out of a brightly lit 7-Eleven at night in wedding clothes.
  • The couple kiss on the Kamo River stepping stones at sunset, and stand in silhouette beneath a concrete bridge over the water.
  • The bride and groom hold each other on the stepping stones of the Kamo River in Kyoto at sunset, a bridge across the water behind.

Japan was the thing that first brought them together, fifteen years before either of them saw it. Now it’s also where they married, and it will always be the country of their first visit and their first hours as husband and wife. At the torii, Dee gave them a line in Japanese: anata no soba ga watashi no ichiban suki na basho desu. Together with you is my favourite place to be. Kyoto came a very close second.

Before Kyoto: Three Days Earlier in Tokyo

Before Kyoto, they spent an afternoon with us in Shinjuku, dressed as themselves: he in a One Piece racing jacket with the Straw Hats across the front, she in a Sailor Moon one. Sailor Moon is a Tokyo story. Naoko Takeuchi set it in Azabu-Jūban, across town from the ginkgo where they stood. The Straw Hats are a crew who set out across the sea after a dream, which is about the best company two people could keep in Tokyo, having crossed the Pacific after theirs.

  • The couple walk arm in arm beneath a huge golden ginkgo on a carpet of yellow leaves in a Tokyo park, on their pre-wedding shoot.
  • The bride laughs up at the groom in his Straw Hats racing jacket among ginkgo leaves, and they run across a lawn in Shinjuku.
  • The couple hug and laugh among yellow ginkgo leaves, and sit on a wooden fence under red maples in a Tokyo park.
  • Orange autumn leaves up close, and the couple kissing in soft backlight in their racing jackets on a Tokyo pre-wedding shoot.
  • Red and orange maples against a pale sky, and the groom kissing the bride's cheek against a misty white background in Shinjuku.
  • The couple walk down a narrow lantern-lit alley in Tokyo, and kiss in front of a wall covered in stickers.