The Emptiness Is Recent
Assynt, the emptiest corner of the Highlands, the people who were cleared off it, and the people who bought it back. The emptiest, most beautiful, most apparently untouched…
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The Island That Won’t Hold Still
Skye, dreamed of for decades, where the ground is the largest landslide in Britain and still going. This post starts a day…
The Army That Never Left
The road west into the Highlands: Glenfinnan, a doomed rebellion, and the one thing here that never lost. The most successful army…
The City We’d Already Built
Edinburgh, for the first time, after years of imagining it. Your brain doesn’t keep a separate drawer for places you’ve been and…
The First Dark
Copenhagen, and the first night in a fortnight. It came with fireworks. Darkness, it turns out, is not an absence. It’s a…
Leaving the Ice
The last days in Ilulissat: a single snowflake, the smallest plane we’ve ever boarded, and the brightest dinner in Greenland. Light arrives…
The Quiet
Ilimanaq, population fifty-five. A place whose name means expectations. There’s a line in the plan for this trip, written months ago at…
The Daytime Version
Oqaatsut, a settlement of forty, twenty-two kilometres north of Ilulissat. After three nights working the midnight sun, we did a strange and…
Midnight Gold on the Ilulissat Icefjord
One midnight of gold on the Ilulissat icefjord, and a promise kept. If you’ve been travelling with us this week, you know…
The Night the Fjord Disappeared
Fog, whales, and the icebergs of Disko Bay, met one at a time. We were given his name months ago, the way…
The Town Called Icebergs
Ilulissat, Greenland. A place whose name means exactly what it says. We checked, from a boat, at midnight. Most of the names…