The Duke Wears a Crown
Glasgow between the races: a duke crowned in traffic orange, an Oasis pilgrimage, and a city with seventy-four nations on the pavement. We had one day off in…
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The Air in the Room
Why the whole world crosses oceans to stand in crowds, and why Glasgow is the city that understands it best. There’s a…
The Glen You’ve Already Seen
Faked fairies, a real massacre, and what the camera leaves out of the most photographed glen in Scotland. In 1920 the man…
The Day We Boarded the Story
Loch Ness by morning, the Hogwarts Express by lunch, and a day built entirely out of things Tracey believed in first. Some…
The Emptiness Is Recent
Assynt, the emptiest corner of the Highlands, the people who were cleared off it, and the people who bought it back. The…
The Island That Won’t Hold Still
Skye, dreamed of for decades, where the ground is the largest landslide in Britain and still going. This post starts a day…
The Army That Never Left
The road west into the Highlands: Glenfinnan, a doomed rebellion, and the one thing here that never lost. The most successful army…
The City We’d Already Built
Edinburgh, for the first time, after years of imagining it. Your brain doesn’t keep a separate drawer for places you’ve been and…
The First Dark
Copenhagen, and the first night in a fortnight. It came with fireworks. Darkness, it turns out, is not an absence. It’s a…
Leaving the Ice
The last days in Ilulissat: a single snowflake, the smallest plane we’ve ever boarded, and the brightest dinner in Greenland. Light arrives…
The Quiet
Ilimanaq, population fifty-five. A place whose name means expectations. There’s a line in the plan for this trip, written months ago at…