Leaving the Ice
The last days in Ilulissat: a single snowflake, the smallest plane we’ve ever boarded, and the brightest dinner in Greenland. Light arrives…
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Ilulissat
The Daytime Version
Oqaatsut, a settlement of forty, twenty-two kilometres north of Ilulissat. After three nights working the midnight sun, we did a strange and…
The Night the Fjord Disappeared
Fog, whales, and the icebergs of Disko Bay, met one at a time. We were given his name months ago, the way…
The Town Called Icebergs
Ilulissat, Greenland. A place whose name means exactly what it says. We checked, from a boat, at midnight. Most of the names…
A Homecoming, More or Less
Copenhagen → Nuuk → Ilulissat The icecap through the window, a language we don’t speak, and a first night with no night.…