37 Frames : Kyoto – Mountain Marathons & Milestones

“If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it.” ~ Albert Einstein

Travelling in Japan is a heady mix of well-trodden paths, mind-boggling crowds, luscious characters, delightful secrets and instant surprises. Kyoto is a destination that always fulfills this brief. Even after 10 plus visits, in as many years, in every season, it remains an all-time favorite visit. Our most recent girlie getaway took us beyond the iconic, glittery temples, past the tourist track on another loved, naturally misguided adventure. This time it was for the Kyoto Mountain Marathon. So thoroughly channeling our inner Einstein it was to be a long haul of madness and firsts for the 5 of us involved.

[Today’s blog post is the unedited version of our Kyoto feature for the October Being A Broad Mag. Posted here with pics galore, some side stories, and completely irrelevant ramblings…]

Our shinkansen swiftly whisked us southbound as a weekend trip for a cause and a challenge waited. Any excuse to explore beautiful, dreamy Kyoto, will do. Combining travel and participating in local events, experiencing daily life and the colors of Kansai just sweetens the deal. In this case it was for the 24th Charity Fun Run. Following an hilarious, ill-fated attempt at the Tokyo Marathon earlier this year (see the April BAB for all the toileting hiccups and full meltdown), it was time to get back in the saddle.

Considerable thought went into planning our self-anticipated comeback particularly after reflecting on the hoopla that we generate when faced with any undertaking. We are aware that things usually don’t go according to plan when we are concerned. So in a pre-emptive strike Trace and I were going for half the drama and signed up for our very first ½ marathon – 21+kms.  Still a very big deal for us. We were as ready as we would ever be. And this time we were taking 3 friends for the ride, also for their own set of firsts. Erin, a virgin 10ker, Emma, a first-timer 5km runner and Marnie with her inaugural 5km walk in Japan.

We arrived in Kyoto disparately on a Saturday, but all finally converged for sunset at Kiyomizu-dera as the city’s night lights winked on below. This was just before I had been randomly complimented in the most arbitrary manner ever, by a middle-aged tourist, who was with his wife, when he just had to let me know that I had, wait for it… “beautiful lips”. I failed miserably to respond, an innate decision for sure not to encourage any further analysis of my alluring chops. Just a little reverse-psychology lip-service, I guess.

There were plenty of giggles and power-pouting as the sun went down. Five friends wandered down quaint tea-pot lane, now deserted for the day save for the golden sunbeams which played on our path. Not for the first time we wondered if it wouldn’t be more productive to come back here tomorrow and poke around the backstreets when the charming, tiny boutiques were open. Perhaps there was a high-tea somewhere nearby? We could certainly handle a shopping/sweet-inspired marathon.

The thought was appealing but so was the finish line of a real race. At the heart we were all committed to at least attempting the charity run/walk.  Each of us dedicated to the challenge for our own individual reasons. Whether to fulfill the next big step on a life journey now devoted to wellness, to break through the pain barrier, to increase fitness, to go from walking to running or to be anything other than sedentary. To do something seemingly impossible and put yourself out there. And to support each other no matter what.

This journey was never really about the destination, but all about the experience. Although we did all secretly hope we’d make it to a real finish line, one with a real sign. That would be good. And if there were any geocaches or cake shops along the way then that would be doubly fabulous.

A spectacularly cheap pasta meal on Hachijo side of Kyoto station sated our carb-loading desires, where remarkably you could get an M size, L size or LL size dish all for the same price. Thank goodness we were so full by the time we rolled out that we couldn’t manage even one 1600yen slice of the most amazing pies at the Berry Café next door. We promised ourselves a victory slice if we all made it. So it was off to digest, find our business hotel and envy Marnie as her room package included a free-welcoming beer.

The location for Sunday’s 24th Kyoto Charity Fun Run was nestled in the foothills and surrounding beauty of the Kyoto Mountains, not too far from Kyoto University. Trace and I headed out there early to get ready for our 21km debut, while the other girls slept in as their races were later in the day. After several wrong turns our very friendly but superbly stressed cabbie finally left us to our own navigational devices and we used our legs to find Takaragaike Park.

The fun run course ebbs and flows around the Takaragaike pond which is at the centre of this pretty park. We had no idea what to expect, only somewhat daunted by the Mountain Marathon sign welcoming us. We thought this was just a fun run and now mountains were involved. But thankfully the course was a 3.01km loop over hills and dales, around the pond, on asphalt and mountain paths. Takaragaike is actually an artificial half-star shaped pond which was created as a reservoir for agriculture in the Edo period. Then it was remodeled as a recreation park for citizens. The main area is the promenade and the pond where boating can be enjoyed with a view to scenic Mt. Hiei-zan. We were relieved at finding out it was a loop course (we would have know this earlier if we had consulted the map and could read Japanese).

We arrived just as the full-marathoners started. And they were fast. We were left in their dust as we had to use the same path to get to the marshalling area. We checked in, which was a comedy but the lovely staff finally figured out who we were and soon we were ready to stretch and limber and face what was to come. We had been blissfully ignorant up until this point. Basking in our own self-important glow. It had been nice telling people we were doing a half marathon, now we would actually have to do it. We picked up our goods, because entering these events is nothing if not all about the goodie bags.  We got plastic bags for our belongings which I promptly decorated and we could select the bandana of our choice. Had to be pink. Then it was on to the highly technical explanation of the race rules, timing and lap counts. In lieu of computers, or timing chips, old-school was flavor of the day. We were proudly given rubber bands. Since we were doing the ½ marathon that required 7 laps of the course, so we received, yes, 7 rubber bands. At the end of each loop one was to be deposited in a cardboard box next to a chair at the turning point. This was all pantomimed. It took us a while to catch on but then with oohs and ahhs the rubber bands were finally wrist-bound and all kinds of scenarios were discussed. Could we ditch all 7 on the first lap and this thing be over in 15mins? Would anyone check? Did we really have to be our own moral compasses? Talk about a test. We thought all we had to do was keep running. This was mutli-tasking, movement with a conscience.

So back to limbering up and before too long it was time for our 10:30am start. Runners of all ages converged at the line, many women and several visually impaired runners. Families were starting to turn out, it was a beautiful day and those full-marathoners were still going full speed, lapping, lapping away. Thankfully Trace had abducted my ipod and made me a very inspiring run list, with music paced for a half-marathon. Ready, set, starto and we were off.

The Kyoto fun run is primarily a run for health with over 1600 participants last year. All money collected supports three vital charities working in developing countries. Several specifically targeted to enhance the lives of women.  KIDS – supporting Thai women & children, Reborn Kyoto which raises funds to teach sewing skills to help women become self-reliant in developing countries and NICCO which began in Kyoto 30 years ago and now provides assistance worldwide. At the time of the run NICCO was assisting earthquake victims in Haiti. So with this in mind we set off, aware that others have much larger problems and daily concerns than our subsequent aches and pains.

The mountain path made dusty work of the first loop. There was a little hill at the beginning and then it was pretty flat after that but the uneven ground took time to get used to. All runners were in good spirits and encouraging each other every time we passed. Trace was ahead and I was just shuffling along. She high-fived me every time we passed, but got carried away about lap 2 and almost slapped me into the pond. The rubber band removal was kind of a game for the first few laps, then the rhythm set in. Inertia kept us moving, mind-numbing blockies, just keep twirling around the pleasant pond. The boats looked like a more enjoyable option by lap 3. Then the pain set in. About lap 4 we had our own personal cheer squad as the girls had rocked up. I jumped a lot and got a bit too excited when I saw them, and as such expelled whatever energy supply I had in reserve.  It was at this point I was sure I could finish, no doubt, despite my discomfort. It was hot, there was chaffing, I drank tea instead of water… I knew Trace would do it, she looked so strong. By lap 5 Erin had joined us with the 10km race underway. She would do it. She looked so in the zone. Then lap 6 extreme pain in my ITB was unbearable but for the first time ever I actually made myself work through it and keep going. There could have been tears but I’ve blocked it out, much like the hurt. It’s just pain after all. When there’s nothing to think about but pain it takes on a new color and you approach it from a difference perspective. Just keep on pushing.

With one little rubber band left I started lap 7, then behind me I heard a terrific stampede. I had almost made it to the pond for the final time when the 5km runners and walkers overtook. And at the head of the bunch were a gaggle of kindy-aged kids. It was a truly humbling moment as I ate the dust of 3 year olds. They tore past me, their worried parents flailing behind “Matte, matte!”. Several crashes and tumbles later with little legs giving way on the rocky path, there were certainly tears but mums and dads suggested “Gambatte” and we all did. Me and the 3 year olds.  I kept shuffling along. Em passed me on her first of 2 laps. I have no idea why she’s never run before, she looked like a gazelle. At the point of no more I found myself almost finished. I threw that last gomu-band in the now overflowing box. Overwhelmed that aspect was done. My body felt so light without all those bands weighing me down.  There were not many runners still behind me but I didn’t care. Trace was already done and cheered my exhausted, red-face over the line for the best and biggest hug ever. I actually made it to end. We finished our first half-marathon.

And there was a sign, a big one. With legs of jelly we waited for Erin, then Emma to finish. Soon Marnie came around the last bend and we all walked with her to the line. Volunteers cheered and clapped and we got our certificates. It was clearly emotional and there were jumps for joy, jumps for relief and jumps for the pie that we now had an excuse to buy. We could certainly get some celebratory mileage out of this achievement for quite some time.

We slowly ambled back to the hotel. Time for a rest, refuel and then so the lactic acid didn’t build up too badly a little wander through Kyoto and one of our favorite places, Pontocho, Gion and the dreamy state that is Gion-Shirawagwa. A marathon of more photographic sorts…Starting in Pontocho.

Past the iconic Funahashi-ya rice cracker shop. We always stop for a senbei or three and marvel at the 100+ year old building still proudly standing at the junciton of the Sanjo Bridge and the Kamo River – now next to a Starbucks.

Crossing the bridge we wound through the backstreets to Gion-Shirawagawa and it was certainly drinkie-o’clock and time to watch sunset again play on our path, across the old wooden homes, stores and roofs. We encountered local chefs, goldfish, a geisha, a maiko, rickshaws, willows and dusk.

And as evening came it was time to fully unwind and bask in the victory and joy of the day by dinning on a delicious feast of Kyoto tofu delight. We love Ume-no-hana and found a branch of this Kyoto based cuisine hidden somewhere near Fushimi-Inari. A culinary marathon ensued.

The next day was spent hobbling around Kyoto taking in great sights, featuring hidden backstreets, elegant shrines, fabulous photo shoots, mountains of Tori’s, secret blooming iris gardens, dealing with lost and found cameras.

Time to re-visit one of our favorite places Fushimi-Inari Shrine, famous for it’s 10,000 tori gates.

Then off to Ryoanji and a little zen garden mediation time…

On to Kinkakuji for some golden temple appreciation. First time here for Em and Erin.

Then to one of our favorite shrines, Heian, which always has something special to offer, in every season. This time a magical garden simply full of blooming iris. Time for an impromtu shoot, some sign-ignoring behaviour, stepping stones and a break on the covered bridge.

A marathon of fun in a weekend. And now time to head home, but not before more milking of the achievements, with take-home pies, bento’s for the train and a Godiva or two.

Fun running for charity in Japan, well actually anywhere was something I never, ever thought I would do. So out of my comfort zone. But it proves that it’s never too late to try something new. That 5 women in their 30’s who’ve never really been inclined to run or walk, can. Trace’s school of thought had always been ” never run when you can walk, never walk when you can sit, never sit when you can lay down…” But now we’ve challenged ourselves in a great way to do something good for ourselves, while also being able to do something for others. And doing what we never thought we could, whether it’s 5k or 21. Our motto these days is a lot more inspiring, “If you can’t fly then run, if you can’t run, then walk, if you can’t walk then crawl, but whatever you do you have to keep moving forward.” We did. We are. We are doing our best.

There is a feel-good element, combined with a unique local experience which just enhances the overall appeal of travel. And there’s a little sense of lunacy and improbability and adventure. All of which you may appreciate a lot more after you can walk again.

With the weather finally cooling down we’re thinking, clearly  just thinking about what trouble we might next get into.

Here are some contenders:

Nov 3rd: Nishinomiya International Half Marathon 2010 UNICEF Cup

Nov 27^th: Run for the Cure

Nov 27^th: Tsukuba Marathon

Nov 28th: Kawaguchi Marathon

Dec 5^th: 30th Yokohama Marathon Distances are half and 10K. Registration starts 9/1.

Dec 5th: Run for Hope

Jan 23rd: 5th Shonan International Marathon

Feb 20th: 2nd Yokohama Women’s Marathon

Feb 28^th: Tokyo Marathon 2010

Japan Running News
Runnet

Have a fabulous week.